Is there anything you guys would advice me to look out for?
- It might be a good idea to check the sump screens in the transmission and differential housings while you have all of the oils drained out!
- Depending on your soil and the operation(s) in which you use the tractor, experiment with tire pressure and ballast. Those two things are extremely critical in a MFWD tractor that size. If you have further questions on performance relating to tire pressure and weights, a local dealer should be able to give you some advice. Good luck with your tractor!
- be sure to check your rockshaft bushings. i use a large prybar between the lift cylinder and the arm. look for play between the shaft and frame. if not caught the shaft can wear through the bushing and u will have to buy a whole rear housing. i cant remember but 8000 bucks sounds about right and thats just the housing. it would be a good idea to take the hood off. check the injection pump connectors they like to rub through the fuel line. check the top radiator hose they are notorious for leaking. check the water pump weep hole. if its wet or damp at all replace it. check for leaking mfwd seals. after u change the trans oil have your deere dealership calibrate the transmission. or post back and i can tell u how to do it. it would be a good idea to adjust engine valves. if it is black smoking have your deere dealership test nozzles. those are the common probelems
- DON’T PUT FRONT DUALS ON THIS…. the front tires camber (lean) when they are turned, if you put front duals on you cannot turn your tires until you are moving, and even then the front axle is stressed because the tires have to lift the other side of the front end off the ground effectively (is how it works, clear as mud?). The new tractors with the ILS can get away with it because the tires do not have to camber as they are independant and move up and down on their own cylinder.